![]() She’s in yellow clogs, chomping a pizza crust, and I swoon. They stroll by our table at Eleven one night to say “hi” to another. ![]() That community happens to include the low-key and legendary Frances McDormand, who lives nearby with her husband, Joel Cohen. Otherwise, Eleven is all about Neapolitan-style pizza, on-trend natural wines, and the off-menu purpose of bringing the community together. Perhaps shepherd’s pie and a cuppa Berkeley’s Leaves and Flower tea, they say. In winter, maybe they’ll do British night, in honor of their mom. Local fish cooked in a coconut broth with scotch bonnet peppers and a little lime sounds nice. Taco night might morph into Haitian night this fall, say the sisters, whose father was Haitian. In part because most West Marin restaurants are closed on Mondays, but also because of the corn tortillas, which are thick, chewy, and handmade.Įl Salvadoran line cook Karina Borjas patted them out for staff meal one afternoon, and they were such hit, now seemingly everyone in town enjoys three for $20, topped with shreds of tender carnitas, crumbles of cotija, and a tad-too-liberal splatter of crema. The 1890s farmhouse, renovated by the Sterlins’ brother, Matt, is packed. Its website doesn’t say so, but clearly everyone here knows. Turns out, Monday night is taco night at Eleven. Below it is a chalkboard scrawled with the simple truth: “Women Are Life.” And strewn atop the host stand is a colorful assortment of postcards, each printed with a fitting command for a restaurant with two inn rooms upstairs: “Eat.” “Drink.” “F_CK.” My 6-year-old son, who can’t read, picks up the “F_CK” one and asks: “Can I keep this?” ![]() On a recent Monday eve, the first thing I see when I enter, toting my two kids, is a photograph of two ginormous naked breasts on a book cover, perched high on a shelf. They haven’t changed much about Smiley’s - other than maybe to add a few more types of beer on tap - but that’s okay: Smiley’s regulars, like most Bolinas locals, aren’t big on change.Įleven, though, is shaking things up. In 2015, it changed to new owners, Leila Monroe and Ashley Huck. The saloon has been over-serving locals since 1851, through the 1906 earthquake, Prohibition, everything. But now Google maps demystifies the unmarked road into town and the surfers and artists and aging rock stars are joined by tech-millionaire third-home owners.īefore Eleven came along, the main drag had just one beloved place to sit down and eat, called Coast Café, and one salty dive bar to stand around and drink: Smiley’s. Last August, sisters Kate and Rebecca Sterlin reopened the long-shuttered Blue Heron at 11 Wharf Road, renamed it Eleven, and brought Bolinas its first wine bar - and second restaurant.īolinas has long been touted as a “hidden” hippie surf village.
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